horns of wilmington's cow

By anth

Rubha Hunish

One of the (many) things I love about Skye is that sense at times that you're at the end of the world, and it hasn't been turned into a tourist attraction with hundreds of other people invited along for the ride. So it was today and a relatively short walk in the north east of the island out to Rubha Hunish, a promontory jutting out into the sea below some fantastic high cliffs.

The wind was still in full effect (but it struck me today that I'm usually a midge smorgasbord, while Mel escapes relatively unbitten, yet on this trip I am thus far itchy lump free), but in the right gear we squelched our way upwards to the cliffs in good spirits.

Overlooking the promontory is a superb bothy in which we took shelter for a sarnie, and to forget the wind for a short while. The building used to be a coastguard lookout, built in the 30s, and it's easy to see why with wonderful views out over the whitecapped sea.

The path to the land below was steep and rocky, but navigable, and we found ourselves alone (as we had done in the bothy) to wander and find some more shelter to watch the sea. Having done a walk round the head we made for a spot where the zealots seemed the most active, only to be rewarded with the fabulous sight of a Minke Whale feeding for a good 15 minutes, about 100 yards in front of us. Wildlife spotting on this trip is going well, and much like the Basking Shark last year there was a sense that this was our whale, not shared with a boatload or people shouting over friends and relatives to come see. The cliffs continued to impress on the walk to complete the lap with Kittiwakes, Fulmars, Gannets, noisy Shags and some very very close Razorbills (above).

Not bad for just 8 or 9 odd kilometres of a round trip. As we were leaving the weather was starting to brighten, and by the standards of tranquility we had been enjoying the path was beginning to get busy perfect timing.

Heading home via Portree (still don't get on with that place, feels like a missed opportunity) there was time for a quick change then out to the Old School Restaurant in Dunvegan for a hearty (and excellent) meal, complete with an entertaining chatty Polish waitress who seems to have fallen in love with the wilds of Scotland.

Tomorrow is the last full day, but I guess at least we know it's not the last day of the holiday altogether solince we're off to Harris on Saturday.

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