Hero or Idiot?

There is a huge ground swell this week hitting so cal - today it was 6-10 foot, triple overhead on the standout sets.

I took a cruise over to venice, not to surf, but to take a couple photos. As I'm getting out of my car, one guy turns to me and says, "Do you know if they are letting anyone out there?" "Doesn't look like it, does it." I said. "Well it sure looks fun," and runs down to the beach. If your a fool.

I followed him down to the beach, where I saw that he met up with his friend, who was apparently pretty stoked to check out the surf. He was carrying a 9 foot foam board - not exactly the specifications you want in close out monster surf, and wearing a full wetsuit and booties. Welp, more power to him - I'm just going to take his picture.

He paddled out, got tossed around about 25 meters into his journey, but kept going. He started to come closer to the larger sets. As seen in this picture, he is about to head out to the breaking section, but ended up turning around. Smart move Mr. Courageous. So I watched as he rode the whitewater 5-6 times. He stood up to my surprise, had a short 2 second ride, fell off, got washed around like a chew toy in a dogs mouth, and then would valiently give his onlooking buddy the thumbs up and shout something like, "this is amazing, you should try it."

I watched in disappointment, a little saddened by his effort, and a little cracked up. What a foolish dude.

In other news, we decided to leave a day early to catch the huge snow storm planning on hitting central colorado on Friday. Pow pow time!