Rainy Gyeongju

In our final weekend together here we succeeded in our second attempt to get to Korea's ancient capital, Gyeongju.

Almost in the centre of this modern city are fields and fields of tumuli named things like Tomb of the Heavenly Horsemen. Over 1000 years old, these mystical burial sites have recently given up some of Korea's finest royal treasures - jade crowns, bronze shoes and gold hats beaten paper thin. Nowadays with the traffic humming around them, the city skyline just beyond and trees popping out of their structures they seem friendly, like a kid's drawing.

If ever Jack and Jill went up a hill, it would have looked like this.