The closeout

I went looking for a spot to surf down the coast today. The sky was overcast and ocean looked flat, but as I headed further south a ripple appeared and waves started to form. Behind it all was a 15 second long-period pulse beating every 15 minutes or so. This wave had seeded thousands of kilometres away and was now making landfall on the western shores of New Zealand. These are the waves surfers dream about. :o)

The picture above shows a wave that is about to closeout on the surfer riding it.