the surfer's perspective

i took many, many shots this evening as the sun set over bondi. i was in two minds: surf the surf or shoot the surf? part of me is a little bit sorry to have missed out on some lovely sets, but i'm also happy to have a collection of photos to have a look through.

this is a quick choice due to sleepiness and i'm keen to blip tonight rather than back blipping.

i shot this from the rocks at the north end of bondi beach. i like how it's the same perspective you get when you're paddling out through the waves to get out back (albeit a little higher than when your nose is at sea level).

the texture of the back of the wave was the main appeal. i love the smooth but rippled (paradox?) consistency of the wave, and the spray you get as it breaks behinds you. hawaiians measure their wave heights from the back - so on hawaiian scale, this is pretty ickle, albeit ideal as far as i'm concerned!

try viewing in large.