Surfs Up

Thursday was easily the best surf day of the holiday - Hossegor was going off! The weather wasn't great but the beach was packed with people watching the surf and surfers, 6-8 feet and breaking right on the beach, stand up barrels galore, wicked. We saw more than one broaken board making its way back up the beach. I went in after lunch when it calmed down a bit, it was still fast and hollow and I was a little scared!