James Bond’s birthplace

James Bond was born here. Yes this is Ian Fleming’s Goldeneye retreat on Jamaica.
 On hearing that it was only twenty minutes up the road from our hotel I thought this is one literary pilgrimage I must make.

 
The area is breathtakingly beautiful and serene.  And so secretive.  The entrance to it is so discreet that our taxi driver nearly missed it. There are no signs just a large notice saying Strictly Private and a pair of locked iron gates.
 
We had to confirm names and table reservation for lunch.
 for Goldeneye has been developed into a five star villa resort incorporating  Ian Fleming's original house and the only way we could get inside was to agree to take lunch there.
The gates swung open.
 Now life got interesting. Our taxi driver who claimed to know the way stopped.

“Which way?” he asked.
Pointless asking us. We were in a huge tropical estate with endless paths, which seemed to go nowhere.
 
“Keep going,” I said “ It’s an adventure.”
The driver laughed and off we set again.
The road is just a dirt track with potholes. Eventually we reach the restaurant, a modest affair with a handful of people. We had expected something far grander than this beach bistro.


Bu it’s not the food I am interested in.
 We have snapper fish caught this morning. And fresh fruit. Ian Fleming reckoned that was all you needed to live on this bit of tropical paradise.

When he built Goldeneye back in the 1940s the kitchen was s perfunctory affair. He wanted the simple life and led a Spartan existence, apart from the cigarettes and the alcohol.
 Finding his house required a bit of detective work because there are no signs and directions seemed to be vague: “Over the bridge and turn left..” said several people I asked. It was two young American women who gave me concise directions or I would never have found it for it is truly hidden amidst the tropical vegetation.

 
You can hire it out. This week there is an English family in. It accommodates ten. I see some Jamaicans sitting on the wall. They are the permanent staff for the Fleming villa: cook, gardener, housekeeper, handyman.
“The butler is inside serving lunch. “said the housekeeper.
 I tell them I am surprised at the size, it’s a lot bigger than I expected.

“Only this bit is the original,” said the housekeeper. “It’s been more than doubled in size.
 
I tell them I am surprised at the size, it’s a lot bigger than I expected.
“Only this bit is the original,” said the housekeeper. “It’s been more than doubled in size.
 Later a Lifeguard whom I got chatting to offered to take us around the lagoon – for free. (We gave him a tip).

That’s when I got to take my blip photo of Goldeneye. 
And the private beach, which Fleming had insisted on having , is tiny and totally inaccessible.
 Perfect Bond country.

No wonder his creator retreated there for two months every year to write his iconic stories.