Marching for Independence

Part of a 2 week holiday back blip starting here on October 14th...

This is something I had only heard about briefly before traveling to Darjeeling. Populated by Ghurkas (Gorkhas) who are ethnically Nepalese, speak Nepali, and dress and look very differently from the Indians down on the plains, there has been a growing movement for many years now for a separatist state of 'Gorkhaland'.

It was explained to us that we'd come at an interesting time as about a month previously a new ruling party had been elected in the region, and it as a little more pro-active than previously. New rules were brought in such as all Gorkhas having to wear national dress one month a year, meaning we were treated to the women in the fabrics you can see above, and the men in their traditional attire and hats.

Every night in the Chowrasta, the main square behind our hotel, on a stage decorated with Gorkhaland flags, there would be speakers and music and song. Every night. This particular day there was more, with a large procession of people leading up to the rally. All peaceful, all directed at pride. It's not always the case, of course. As with any such movement you will get extremists who play their part, and there have been political assassinations surrounding the issue.

But for the most part the struggle is a stand-off with the Indian government. The Gorkhas feel that the Indian government directs funds elsewhere, towards 'Indians', leaving them to scape around for money for infrastructure. So for their part the Gorkhas refuse to pay their taxes, or for electricity, and while in Gorkhaland cover up the 'WB' on their number plates (for West bengal) with 'GL'.

Meanwhile things like the quality of the roads suffer immeasurably, making it difficult for them to maintain the thriving tourist industry. And so tourists are told about the struggle (hoping they'll let other people know - ta da!) and asked for their views on how best aims can be achieved.

We left the crowds to visit the Bhutia Busty monastery, although it was unfortunately closed for renovation, so we could only see the outside and watch the breeze in the prayer flags.

Walking around Darjeeling is a tiring prospect, so after buying some single estate tea (well you've got to haven't you?) we retired to the hotel and I moved to the rooftop terrace in the early evening to document the experiences, knowing that we were unfortunately getting on another sleeper the day after, so leaving this place where we could go walking with no hassle, very little staring and great climate, to travel for the entire following day to the hustle of Varanasi...