Simple

After our overnight stop in Halong Bay, we got up for an early breakfast (there wasn't much option - the engine on the junk seemed to be located right underneath our cabin) and steamed off for an hour or so to Vung Vieng.

This is one of those almost mythical floating fishing villages, miles from shore. Vung Vieng is located in an inlet in one of the islands, sheltered from the storms in the area by the high island peaks surrounding it.

We took the tender to the landing dock and then transferred to a small craft rowed by one of the villagers. She took us on a tour of the village, which is home to 34 families. To say their life is simple is an understatement. They've electric light, thanks to solar power, but that's about it.

The houses are gathered in groups of two or three, scattered in various parts of the inlet, with some larger communal structures, such as a primary school. The fishermen head further out into the bay to for the day's catch. If they get good fish that are a little too small, they'll keep them in large nets back at the village until they're big enough to sell.

Vung Vieng also has a pearl farm, and we saw a demonstration of them injecting the starter pearls into some oysters, and then harvesting pearls from oysters that had been through the same process 18 months ago.

Back on the junk, we took the two hour journey back to the terminal. Halong Bay defies description. It is the most beautiful, spectacular, yet peaceful place I've ever been. It almost looks other-worldly.

Back with our guide Huan, we took another lengthy drive back past Hanoi for our homestay evening with a family in the mountains west of the city. It's called a homestay, but it's not really. We've a lovely little villa-like place in the grounds of the family home, though we were invited in to see their daily worship ritual to Buddha this evening before dinner.

That was after a brief spell fishing (girl child: 12; boy child: 6) which we thought would form the basis of our evening meal.

And then, to round off the evening, we were treated to a foot bath with herbs and ginger. This essentially involves you putting your feet in a bucket of hot water, but it was quite relaxing.

An early night beckons. We're joining the locals for their morning exercises at 7:30. And I thought holidays were meant to be relaxing...