Stocking up

The exams are finished (hurrah) and we decided to celebrate by taking a trip to the Alt Emporda to top up our supplies of wine for our party next week, and to find somewhere where we could have a nice relaxed lunch, the intention was to then go on to the beach in the afternoon.

Plans changed as inability of teenage boys to separate themselves from pits seems to get ever more difficult, so we set off late and as I was navigating we arrived without incident at my favourite bodega, Mas Oliveda, in the charming little village of Capmanys.

If there is one area that the catalans fail it is in customer service. They seem to find it difficult to raise a smile, put themselves out, or even in some cases acknowledge one as a customer by summoning up any form of civility. Mas Oliveda is a notable exception, the lady in the shop was charming, spoke good English, knew her product and was eager to help. We were shown around the museum which is fascinating, and then accosted by a tall, very elegant lady, and invited to view an exhibition of paintings by a local artist in the private dining room of the Masia.

She spoke to me in impeccable French, obviously recognising by my elegant dress and air of insouciance that I was of the Paris de Mode. She turned out to be the owner of the winery, the grand dame of the House of Oliveda and not only did she take us under her wing, but gave us not just a glimpse of a new Cava that they are developing for the younger market, but also free bottles for Adam and Jack to take away and try. For us it was just as easy for her to summon up a bottle of the house best Cava and share a civilised half hour.

She also recommended a local restaurant,Mas Renart, in the village of Mollet de Peralada, where we had a super lunch, served on a sunlit if slightly breezy terrace, by a bevy of absolutely charming staff.

Skipped the beach and came home to catch the dying rays of the sun for an hour and a splash in the pool.

The photograph is from the museum at Mas Oliveda, a display of brass cask taps, from a selection of more than 2000, the museum also has old machinery, antique scales and some fantastic carvings of villages, sculpted from Ash tree roots. If you are in the area, drop in!