STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

The Biancograt is considered by many to be the finest snow ridge in the whole of the Alps. It was first climbed on the 12th August 1876 by Henri Cordier (France) and Thomas Middlemore (England), with the Swiss Guides Johann Jaun and Kasper Maurer. However, they did not reach the main summit, the final ridge (now with fixed chains) struck such fear into them that they preferred to climb back down the Biancograt. Two years later, to the day, the Berlin scientist and politician Dr, Paul Gussfeldt completed the ascent with local guides Hans Grass and Johann Cross. On the 15th March 1929, Carl Collmus trudged up the wintry Biancograt. In the early summer of 1973, the diminutive chimney sweep, Heini Holzer, descended the Biancograt on skis whilst a storm raged all around him. Sadly, four years later, when attempting a ski descent of the far more difficult North-East Face of the neighbouring Piz Roseg, "Tini Heini", as he was affectionately known by all, fell to his death.