Double double

I wondered today whether trips like this change you. Not necessarily in a dramatic way. We've had so many moments on this trip which I describe most easily as my Planet Feeling - it saves me trying to put my emotions into words. It's of feeling in awe, being touched to the core. We concluded they must, even if we weren't exactly sure how.

Our usual double destination for today was Killinallan on Loch Gruinart followed by Bunnahabhain Bay which houses another distillery.

Driving along Loch Gruinart, the sun was lighting up the sand dunes against a moody sky. Unfortunately, it also highlighted the cattle so it was touch and go whether I'd get Rich out of the car.  We took a walking pole each, just in case, and headed off in a bracing, biting but invigorating wind. Thankfully, the cows were grazing on top of the sand dunes and we were following the shore line. 

Another beauty! White sand today, turquoise water, a few white horses and beautiful patterns in the sand. A simple but stunning landscape. We walked around the headland and then made our way back, enjoying the plentiful bird life along the way. 

We stopped to eat lunch looking out over the sea before heading round to Bunnahabhain. 

It wasn't what we expected at all. We dropped down towards a tiny hamlet with the first sight being of tall, grey derelict houses overlooking the magnificent views of the Sound of Islay and the Paps on the other side. It was quite a shocking contrast but there were houses occupied too. 

Dropping into the bay, you see the distillery. Another surprise. Not freshly whitewashed. It had an aged feeling, far more fitting for its 200 years than the others. I left Rich and Little Dog in the car watching the coastline  and went off to take a couple of photos. 

I was drawn in. 

First by the multitude of stacked and picturesque whisky barrels at the entrance. But then by the tall and eerie, multiple-windowed warehouse.  It could easily have been the setting for a gangster movie. I wondered whether it had closed down. The atmosphere was intense. It was fast and surprisingly becoming my favourite distillery. It seemed wholesome, without marketing spin. And the location with its outlook, without doubt, was the finest of all.

And then, out of the silence, I heard someone's tuneful whistling. From a side door walked a friendly-faced man working there.  In operation after all. 

I walked out on the pier enjoying the moment and eventually wandered back, meeting the same guy again, Robin, and another chap, Des.

What lovely, lovely men. Robin had worked there for 39 years and told me they were preparing for the start of operations next week. Yesterday, they had seen dolphins, otter were a common sight and he confirmed that there were juvenile sea eagles around too. 

When your employees chat to pedestrians with their job, wildlife and location in their hearts, who needs marketing?  
Sold!

Rich went for a 'quick' look after me and took just as long. I watched him standing still on the pier.

What a place. I'd recommend to anyone: visit the other distilleries first and this one last, with an open mind.

The double outing had ended but we weren't quite ready to head back so we took a turn to Loch Finlaggan, Ancient Seat of The Lord of The Isles.  Oozing ancient drama, there were fascinating snippets about who lived where and dramatic events that took place on a small boggy island on a loch which changed the course of history. 

As we arrived home, the sun was just setting so we enjoyed the last light of the day with a final mooch down to Dunyvaig Castle on the shoreline of our bay.

A double double outing!