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In Greek towns and cities the periptero, or tobacco kiosk, is a wayfinding landmark; "Turn left at the second periptero to find the bookshop", but out here, in our quirky countryside, it is the private churches. This one is Metamorfosi Sotiros, which means the Transfiguration of the Saviour, and is the closest to our house. When we describe the location of our house we tell people we are just below the French house, facing Skiathos, but the Greeks describe our location as 'opposite Metamorfosis'. In this case, opposite meaning; across the valley, and not across the street. In fact the French house is older and architecturally far more striking, but presumably the locals believe that the church will be here forever whereas the abominable ostentatious house will not. This little church is on the same popular dirt road that Kiki's church is on and so sadly, it is locked.