Awake at 0615; packed and out at 0645 and onto the M6 from just north of Carlisle and drove an hour or so to Kirkby Stephen. We abandoned the car on a pavement and boarded a mini bus that drove us back up the M6 to Penrith and across the A66 to Kewsick and then - I have no idea, really.. We were duly  deposited  at St Bees Head - a mere 80 miles away with the intention of walking back to the car along Wainwright's Coast to Coast. Hopefully by Monday afternoon....

We arrived at St Bee's Head around 10 and having ceremonially dipped a toe in the Irish Sea, off we set. Up the sandstone cliffs and through the gorse; around the lighthouse. The views were better to Galloway and the hills to the north, the Isle of Man remained a fleeting outline. Grey and overcast but not raining. 
After a circuit of the headland we headed off down quiet hedge lined country lanes, through a village. With a pub (too early to have worked up a thirst) and no shop. And down another lane, across some fields  and into a village. With no shop. (Apart from a closed bakers) And onwards up a cycle path, past a cricket ground and into a village we knew had a shop. The mini bus driver had alerted us to us and recommended the pies. Sadly it closed at 1230; we arrived just before 1. Foiled!

So to commiserate we set off up Dent; a 350 metre lump that gave lovely views back across to the Irish Sea and over largely barren West Cumbria. And Sellafield. But looking east was much more inviting. Much as at Carbeth on the West Highland Way - you suddenly get a promise of the adventure to come. 

We slithered off the back; through peaceful Ulldale and descended to Ennerdale Bridge. Tch... The local community run shop / cafe was a disaster; overcharged for food, and then she in charge said to us 'I on't have time for this' when asked to fix. And promptly announced at 3.30 that the kitchen was now closed, despite being open until 5...! 

Oh well. I will not hurry back. 
Through gathering greyness we trotted on, up the south side of Ennerdale Water and ended up some time later at the youth hostel where we'd booked in for the night. 

Some bumptious Home Counties types rather dominated but we sneaked in some tortellini and a glass (or two) of red before retiring. 
19 miles done. A nice warm up for the big day.