Barra to Eriskay to South Uist
Four islands, two ferries and two causeways under our wheels in two days! We ate our porridge, said our goodbyes to Sarah and the American couple Lois and John and cycled across the island of Barra to the ferry terminal, detouring a couple of miles to here which is the scenic Barra Airport where the planes land on the beach when the tide has gone out. Lois and John flew in here yesterday from Glasgow and had their photo taken as a souvenir.
En route to the airport we passed a tiny Kirk where there were several Commonwealth Graves, unsurprisingly mainly seamen from local families.
Having enjoyed the views of Traigheais Beach from the top of the sand dunes (from where I took my blip), we got back on our bikes and cycled to the Ferry terminal where we once again met up with Lois and John!
A chilly forty minute crossing on the much smaller ferry and we arrived on the 'blink and you miss it' island of Eriskay. The hill out of the bay was steep but afforded us great views of the white sand beaches and turquoise waters as we raced downhill into the village and then across the causeway and on to South Uist. The sign at the entrance to the causeway warned us to be careful of otters crossing so we went slowly in the hope, but sadly none were crossing today.
Up the hill and on to South Uist proper and Tony spotted the Kilbride Cafe so it was a good time to stop for toasted sandwiches and cuppas. South Uist is like no terrain I have been through before, flat with small lochans, moorland and grassland with gentle rolling hills to the east. I was reminded of Madeleine Bunting's book about the Hebrides highlighting the difficulties of living here. When we turned off onto the Cycleway extra loop we passed not a soul nor a vehicle and, although there were obviously homes with evidence of residence and families, there were also many derelict cottages in and amongst the ancient ruins of black houses. We had hoped to see the machair, pronounced macca, in full spring flower bloom but Sarah had told us that the wildflowers were late this year because of the lack of rain. A shame because we passed by whole fields and marshes full of yellow iris yet to bloom. We did spot an abundance of marsh marigolds, milkmaids, daisies and buttercups.
Another strange thing caught my eye. I spotted several children's bicycles abandoned at the roadside but it was only when we passed a bus shelter full of several bikes that it occurred to me that they were waiting for the children to be dropped off the school bus so they could cycle home!
Out of the extra loop and we took the road to Lochboisdale in to a headwind to arrive in good time at Brae Lea guest house. We are now showered, changed, clothes washed through and on the line, and enjoying Patsy's home with picture windows looking down to the sea in one direction and across to the hills in the other. We are booked in to the Lochboisdale Hotel for our evening meal but thinking we may go for a walk in the afternoon sunshine before then.
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