Monica Galetti's perfect starter

I met my photographer/travel/foody friend Becca for lunch at Monica and David Galetti's new restatement Mere on Charlotte Street. You will know Monica from Professional Masterchef and kipping in expensive hotels with Giles Coren.

As discrete as a private members club from the outside, the ground floor bar echoes silent plushness. There is no hurry here.

David introduces us to the menu over some drinks then we descend to the slightly disappointing restaurant below. It reminded me slightly of a West End Thai restaurant, a shame because the service and food was impeccable.

Coming from Le Gavroche (which I am fortunate to have eaten in) I noticed small but unobtrusive service details which made a difference, wether that might be wine during or napkin folding.

The food also followed classic lines, although plated in a more contemporary style.

The starter of peas, hazelnuts and ricotta was the perfect starter (see picture). I kept thinking HOW LONG DID IT TAKE TO SHELL THOSE PEAS (loudly but just to myself).

The following five courses followed the same well balanced lines, the best being lamb, both confit and rump with accompaniments. The most disappointing the ham hock in a spiced broth which seemed a little ordinary.

We didn't go with the wine pairings on this occasion , however the sommelier offered us a light Austrian red which fitted the bill perfectly.

On the subject of which, yes it was pricier than we thought it would be but there was no time limit on the table. Three hours of perfect cocooned harmony. How better to spend a Saturday lunch.