Magic Square

Oppede le Vieux is, as the name suggests, an ancient hilltop village. It has had a chequered history, to say the least. It has houses dated from the 12th century, a 13th century chateau and a beautiful 12th century church that is currently being renovated, revealing some wonderful painted walls. Very much a fortified village, it has had over the centuries large populations living within its protective walls. Eventually, as dangers disappeared, people moved out and down into the valley. Then in the early 20th century the centre of the village was moved down and 'new' Oppede was built. Now the old village is a tourist attraction and the home to a few people with permanent and second homes.

When we first went there a few years ago it was possible to scramble up the ruins of the ramparts and the castle, peer through empty doorways and windows with sheer drops and find ancient steps that suddenly came to an end. When we went today, we realised that health and safety had come to town. Open holes had been blocked off and a manageable and safe path and stairway takes people up to the top. Nevertheless it is a splendid place to wander about in and the views are fantastic.

This is a typical passageway at the lower level with a mixture of sort of habited dwellings and ruins and ancient stairways. The interesting thing about this particular passageway is the writing to the right of the doorway. It is a carved Latin palindrome, using the words SATOR, AREPO, TENET, OPERA, ROTAS in a square. It can be read in any direction - apparently! My Latin isn't good enough to translate, but it's something to do with a sower called Arepo!

I actually think the whole place is magic. Enchantment from its ancient history. What stories those walls could tell!

Anyway, we have only one day left in the house and it's market day in Bonnieux on Fridays. Very windy today, but still warm.