Athabasca Glacier, Columbia Icefields

Along the Icefields Parkway today from Lake Louise to Jasper, a distance of about 140 miles along what is advertised as one of the journeys of the world. Without a doubt it is up there with the best despite the inclement weather. Since the snow of yesterday the temperatures have plummeted across western Canada and we awoke to snow flurries with intermittent bursts of sunshine.

As this was a shorter trip than from Kamloops to Lake Louise we stood a better chance of stopping and visiting places, landmarks and view points especially as we are coming back this way the day after tomorrow. We pored over the maps and information booklets to work out a plan which we largely stuck to. First up was Herbert Lake where mist was still gently rising from the water surface, second was a view of the Crow's Foot Glacier which is now like a crow with two toes rather than the usual three, retreatin ice has done for the bottom toe.

Next up was Bow Lake which was definitely did not have mist rising gently from its surface. This lake, brilliant blue in colour despite the grey skies was being whipped into waves by a stiff breeze which also brought flurries of snow. We got out to have a quick look but preferred the warmth of the RV for coffee and scone. Perhaps there's a walk there to Bow Lake Glacier Falls on the way back

Following on from Bow Lake was Peyto Lake (Pee-Toe) which is supposed to be the bluest of all the blue lakes in the region. Not today through a mist of driving snow. It was cold too at over 6000 feet. Undefeated we travelled on to the Colombia Ice Fields Visitors Centre which for many is the highlight of a trip along the Icefields Parkway. Ice hundreds of feet thick on the Columbia Icefield extrudes glaciers down many valleys. The Centre looks out over the Athablasca Glacier, one of many which squeezed out from the Icefield capping the mountain tops. Here you can book a ride on the Snocoach" onto the glacier and a trip along a "Skywalk" a glass floored bridge that hanged 900 feet above the valley bottom. We did neither, we may do so on the way back if the weather is suitable.

We did however, walk to the foot of the glacier, a much longer journey than in 1907 and a surprising distance from the time I visited in 1982. I was in my element but I think Susan was suffering from the effects of a whole day of Geography lessons. This is landscape in the raw, newly emerged from the ice. More moraines, more glacial debris, more ice, evidence of scratches, or striations on the bare rock where particles in moving ice have been dragged across the rock surface, more, more, more than any man deserves.

Unfortunately we had to leave to get to the campsite in Jasper before it got too dark, but not before a (too) close encounter with an elk along the roadside. A line of cars on the verge indicated something had been spotted. Instead of remaining in our cars we all got out to look and became too familiar with a male elk with a full head of antlers. A lesson learned.