Sunday: Klamath Tribal Reserve

K. and I are both quite early risers so we were on the beach, walking, by 0830. It was wonderfully serene and empty - we saw the occasional runner and wishbone formations of birds flying above.

The drive from Yachats down the coast, on the 101, was magical. Every turn and viewpoint was better than the last. Our intention was to stop in Crescent City, California, for the night. We drove through and didn't like it at all. We couldn't even pinpoint the centre, let alone find a heart to it. We decided to overshoot and, spontaneously, ended up in Klamath, a tiny, predominantly Native American, village. Our motel is quiet, wifi less and clean, and the bar over the road is one of the best we have been too - it's a dive bar, we played pool, ate burgers and chatted with some really colourful locals. It's the kind of locals' bar I thought only existed in the movies. It's more than we could have hoped for when we ended up here spontaneously.