DisneyLisbon

Like all Lisbon tourists we went to Sintra, and today was the day. An easy train ride into the hills then a walk round the Palácio Nacional, beautifully decorated with azulejos and painted swans or magpies or boats on the wooden ceilings. The proportions, the intent, the airiness and the exquisite decoration reminded me a little of Granada but on a more domestic scale. I could imagine children romping round and finding hiding places in the small spaces under the bottom of spiral stairs. An utterly delightful place. I'd happily have it as my summer palace.

Not so the Palácio Nacional de Pena at the top of a nearby hill. Long before we got to the top, glimpses of it through the trees had decided me that it was 19th century Disneyland for the royals and mostly it proved to be, not only the outrageous mismatch of varieties of kitsch but also the crammed queues shuffling round, taking a photo at every step. What is this about? Proving you were there? 

The vestiges of the tiled monastery from the 16th century provided small glimpses into happier architecture but the appalling patchworks of replacement tiles were excruciating and I was glad to escape. The gardens, created from a barren hillside, are, I'm sure, worth seeing but by then we were drained by the place and glad of a walk back down the hill to Sintra.

I didn't much want to do the walk back from Rossio station through elegant Baixa to our flat in lively, noisy Alfama but we spent some of the evening listening to Fado on YouTube to try to appreciate what the fuss is about. And for sure recordings are better than what we've been hearing on the street.

Extra for Tivoli who enjoys sympathetic tile renovations.