Casa indiana

Begur has a particularly close connection with Cuba. The early 1800s must have been hard times; a quarter of the population emigrated to Cuba to find work. Some stayed there, and a very few successful families returned having made their fortunes, and built "Indian houses" in Begur as a souvenir of their colonial past. This is the Pere Roger house.

Most of these houses have covered first-floor balconies like this one, with frescoes of South American scenes, and according to a book we've just bought, the interiors are even more sumptuous. Most are private houses, but at least one of them is now a restaurant, so that's on our programme to visit.

After less than a week, we've developed almost a routine: at about 7 pm, head into town for a drink and possibly tapas as well. This evening I put a casserole of poulet à la boulangère into the oven before we left, and it was perfectly cooked when we returned after a little aperitif of deep-fried brie with plum jam and lightly grilled vegetables.