Pregnant by hook or by crook

We had two satisfactory meetings at the Ministry of Wildlife today, which are usually interrupted by double-booking, incessant loud phone calls, coughing and spitting of red khat leaves or loud news screens in every government official's office blaring out the latest Trump fiasco.

Fraser listened to our plans for next year and gave some advice about some of the wildlife conservation issues we face. Some of the old hands who have been working in conservation since before Sudan split have great knowledge of geography and wildlife, yet because of zero resources, they cannot travel in person to experience the current situation. Therefore our tactful feedback can inform them, and most of them appreciate it.

Fraser chaired a meeting last weekend that was to negotiate the dowry for a female family member, and he explained the complicated process of entering into marriages. In this case the bride's price has been set at 282 heads of cattle, down from an original request of 302, to be paid by various uncles and key members of the family.

Divorce is possible and can be initiated by both men and women, yet is rare in Dinka cattle-herding communities because of the complications of refunding the dowry. By the time of a divorce the cattle that formed the dowry will have been sold, moved or died and would be very difficult to trace.

One reason to divorce a woman is if she fails to bear children, although in practice if a husband intimates he wishes to do this, he will be dissuaded by his uncles and urged to keep her if she is a 'good wife'. Then will begin a process of negotiation to secure the wife's approval to seek a second wife. In this way it's not dissimilar to the general acquisition of extra wives as permitted by most South Sudanese tribes, yet I imagine the childless wife will be more amenable as she will already be suffering from sadness at her own failure to conceive, and expecting that a new wife will enter the home.

If it suspected a male is infertile, remarkably, a wife is permitted to raise the subject with her father-in-law, who will gently propose that she selects one of the brothers to father her children. The brother will be approached and liaisons in the name of conception allowed. The husband may guess why his wife has suddenly become pregnant, but usually pride and the emasculation of his own infertility will prevent him from addressing anything. Excellent problem-solving by the woman especially if marrying into a handsome family. Not so good for the husband's self-esteem, but infertility is already especially hard-hitting in a society that prides large, flourishing families above all else.

The most incredible of all is when an older man who already has grown children marries a younger woman who is single for reasons such as widowhood or some stigma she is carrying. If he no longer has the energy the old man can say to his new wife that she may select one of his sons to bear her children. Then the son must ensure he undertakes his 'task' diligently but with his father's blessing. I asked Fraser whether the woman is ever permitted this option for her 'pleasure' but apparently, no, it can only be for conception. A great shame for her, as the son will already have existing avenues. In this and the brother scenario above, I am sure in practice there is a blurring of conception vs pleasure.

'Um I don't think I am pregnant after that, it just doesn't feel like it'

'No I don't think so, the angle wasn't ideal'

'We probably need to try again'

'Yes, say in around 5 minutes?'

None of these scenarios account for the additional extra amount of rumpy pumpy that human nature will direct people to seek, through whatever channels. I have been told the Azande (third largest tribal group in South Sudan, occupying the south-western region where we focus) are very promiscuous and if their marriage and conception rules are in any way similar to the Dinka ones that Fraser described, it's probably a fair label. Good for them. People aren't getting their kicks in many other ways in South Sudan.

Charles the Undersecretary was very accommodating to issues we brought up, bending over backwards to offer support (non-financial). Perversely given the conflict and general chaos I still do experience stronger and more supportive government relationships here than practically anywhere else I've worked.

Poni makes the best fresh lemon juice, bar none. I'm getting on it as soon as I get home.

Another aerial Juba shot. These remain a go-to as it's much safer than inviting the hassle of the multitude of government personnel who scour the city streets, interrupting people's days to arbitrarily check paperwork and invent reasons for fines. Traffic police, military police, regular police, national security service, SPLA (army). It's best just to look straight ahead at junctions and hope the lights change quickly.

Onto Ethiopia for a night flight back to the UK and whiling away the time in transit by working on a grant application where we've been invited to the second stage.

Gloves at the ready for a forty degree drop in temperature.