WhatADifferenceADayMakes

By Veronica

Heavenly chimes

After yesterday's diabolical atmosphere, today I was in the belltower of Perpignan Cathedral for a blipmeet with TickyTocky and Mrs TT. What a contrast! It was hot and steamy at street level, but there was a nice breeze at the top of the tower.

The carilloniste Elizabeth gave us a tour. Obviously I'm much more ignorant about bells than TickyTocky, so I had no idea you could play them using a "keyboard". It basically works like an organ console, with some bells played with the feet and others on a double row of levers laid out like a piano keyboard. See the fourth extra. The clapper of each bell has a wire attached which runs through a hole in the floor to the appropriate lever on the console below. The larger bells require a surprising amount of force, hence why Elizabeth is pounding the levers with her fists. It's a good upper body workout! She played us a few tunes including Amazing Grace and Someday My Prince Will Come, and Mrs TT had a go on the practice console (which just tinkles quietly and doesn't ring the actual church bells). And when the automated angelus played at midday we went up into the loft to listen (first extra). It was really interesting, so thank you TickyTocky for inviting me along!

TT had also used TripAdvisor to find an excellent lunch spot just a couple of minutes' walk away. By the time we arrived the outdoor seating was full, so we reluctantly sat inside. This turned out to be a good choice when half an hour later the people sitting outside rushed in bearing plates and glasses as the heavens opened ... we already had the best seats next to the window. The food was really excellent -- I'd definitely go back there. It's le 17, for the record.

It had stopped raining by the time we'd finished lunch. Next stop, the new Hyacinthe Rigaud museum, which is showing a Dufy exhibition. I like Dufy and am particularly fond of his paintings of his studios, so this exhibition, of his studios during the few years he spent in Perpignan, was perfect. There was also a huge and fabulous tapestry of a summer scene that I hadn't seen before -- there's a not particularly good photo of it on this page. I can't say I was so keen on the museum itself, it seemed quite cramped and badly lit.

While we were there, a dramatic thunderstorm passed over, so we kept dry having a look around the permanent collection before heading back to our respective cars through the few last drops of rain. Back home to fling all the windows open and let the cool air in. It was a lovely day, thanks TT and Mrs TT, and till next time!

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