Gulmit, Pakistan

Back blipping as WiFi has not been good enough.

Left our hotel for Chinese customs etc at 10.30. Queues already of Spanish people.
Opened at 11 (Beijing time) and we needed our exit form and passports for one official.
Then the bags went through a scanner scanner and were taken outside
Then we queued for more passport stuff. Scrutinised by a woman as we queued, and she did some writing down. Then we saw a man at a desk, scanning every page of old visas etc, plus we got photo done. Then we went out, getting passport checked again, to put bags on one side of a barrier while we stood at the other side for about an hour. In the sun.

Karim said goodbye. Eventually the bus came and and we got bags and got on. Another uniform came on board to check passports again. And we were off for the 72 miles to the Pakistan entry point, but we were stopped further on to be checked again before we started climbing to the pass.

We Drove up the valley where Brown hills became snow covered ones. Bushes changing colour. We Crossed the river. Lots of dried up bits, stones rubble. Continued on for 2 hours, gaining height very gradually, until we reached some long bends to near the top of the pass. At the top (over 15,000 ft) there was a final military check from China and we drove a few yards to go under the Pakistan arch and stopped to get photos in the snow at the top of Kunjerab Pass and the snowy peaks around.

We entered Pakistan after 2.5 hours driving at 60km an hour - Chinese rules. It was all smiles when we entered Pakistan - Pakistani men, also crossing, all waved and smiled. It was a relief to be out of the repressive regime of China. The system itself in Pakistan is not repressive of women - different religious group differ in attitudes, but women hold professional jobs. In the Hunza area most are followers of Aga Khan, and women are allowed to worship with the men, and don’t cover their heads etc.

Jude. UK leader, gave us a picnic to eat on the bus - bread, tomato, hard boiled egg, banana and orange cake.

After that the scenery was really stunning. The Karakoram Highway down from the pass must be one of the most beautiful drives in the world. The road was started by the Pakistan military in the 1960s and improved a bit with the help of the Chinese in the 70s. Now it has been re-improved 3 years ago as part of CPak. (China’s plan to be able to drive to the sea to a port it is building to export).

At first from the top the valley was wide, with many hairpin bends descending, until the snowy mountains could no longer be seen as the sides of the narrow gorge became so steep. We could look up 1000ft and more of sheer cliffs, scree and rockfall. At first there was a small stream tumbling down, and as further streams joined it, it grew into a raging torrent of rushing water, grey with silt. On the way down we had occasional glimpses of majestic peaks, some over 7000 metres.
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After 3 hours or so we emerged from the gorge and reached Sust, where the Pakistan formalities were conducted. What a difference. We went to a counter where a few chaps gave us forms to fill in - don’t bother with the date, or the hotel, just say Passu we were told. There were 2 men behind another desk with computers, taking the forms and scanning the passports. A photo was taken and we were off. Our Pakistani guide Irfan met us and we changed to a new, smaller bus, and drove down the road for a cup of tea. Irfan gave us lots of information and we stopped at a couple of glaciers and viewpoints on the way down the wider valley to Gulmit.

We are so lucky to have got over the pass - it was announced today that the road will be closed for 2 days. Tomorrow is the day of remembrance for the Shai Muslims of the death of their prophet Hussain, so the men all whip themselves into a frenzy, literally. The government is frightened there could be trouble between minority Shai and Sunni and the don’t want to put the Chinese off the trading plans. Then the next 2 days are Chinese holiday so nothing moves on that side.

We arrived at 6.30 Pakistan time, 9.30Beijing time, after 11 hours on the road or at customs/passport control. We have a room in a very simple motel - a shower that only drips out, that kind of thing, and flies. But talk about a room with a view - the blip is looking back up the valley.

WiFi is too weak to look at photos so I am unlikely to get blip, make comments or use Facebook. This is a most wonderful experience!