Nanga Parbat from FAIRY meadows

Breakfast of porridge, omelette and chapattis set us up for the trek, then we and Carol walked to a viewpoint we’d read about where the mountain is reflected in the lake if you catch it early enough. We couldn’t see a lake, then realise a small pond was reflecting the mountain which was so pretty.

Eight of us set off at 9 for the trek, accompanied by a Irfan and a “scout” - an armed guard. Apparently a group of Russian and Chinese trekkers had been killed up there 2 years ago by Taliban. I wasn’t convinced that our one man with his gun would have much of an effect on a tribe of determined Taliban, but anyway there wasn’t a lot else to do, so we set off up through delightful forest. The pines smelled lovely in the sun. The birch had turned golden yellow. The incline was gradual, which meant it didn’t feel like we had attained more than 1000ft by the time. time we reached the Messner Beyal camp. We met ponies bringing down some Thai people. Then some young men from a Karachi turned up on ponies. We sat to enjoy the view of the mighty mountain, all the while being aware that the clouds were building up in the valley behind us. We all wanted to head straight down but Irfan wanted us to stay there as locals wanted to make us lunch. They said an hour, but it was 1 and a half, by which time Nanga Parbat also was in cloud and a cold wind was blowing up the valley. We gobbled the food. When I stood up somebody asked if I’d been walking all day with my bottom hanging out of my trousers. I must have caught them on a nail when we sat on the bench to look at the view. Normally I’d have slung by coat or jumper round the offending object but it was too cold, so the man who cooked lunch brought me a huge needle with such thick thread it tore the fabric even more. Of course my safety pins were in the bag back at base. Luckily I’d brought up another pair. Eventually we caught up with the others - it was so easy going downhill.

We joined the four who did not walk for a cup of tea, and Irfan explained we’d have to start out at 7 tomorrow as at would be a long day, what with the walk to the jeeps and the scary 2 hour drive to the bus. Then a long haul when we left the KKH to climb the Babusar Pass. The objective the Naran. 3 people objected to the early start but the rest of us saw the logic of it. And Irfan is the leader!

The wind got up about 5 accompanied by heavy rain, which, in the morning, we saw had brought the snow line further down Nanga Parbat.

Another fantastic day.