Cairo

The journey to Cairo was relatively pleasant. Just a two-and-a-half hour wait at the border, where I met some lovely people and even received an invitation to lunch when I'm back in Gaza in January. The seven hour drive through the Sinai was happily uneventful.

I stayed with my gorgeous schoolfriend, Nivene, who lives in Al Dokki. Cairo is such a vast and vibrant city. We went off gallivanting in the evening before I left for the airport at 1am.

Khan Al Khalili market place is a cacophony of sound and a kaleidoscope of colour. We were offered every ware by persistent salesmen who told us, "I can give you what your heart desires, whatever that may be". They were all very surprised when Nivene and I were able to answer them in Arabic.

I managed to do some Christmas shopping, and bought myself some knock-off perfume from a young man who gave me a discount in exchange for a photograph. The variety of goods on offer was overwhelming, but I failed to find any za'atar that wasn't completely tasteless. I can see now why people often leave Gaza with suitcases full of the herb mix!