Zaha Hadid

Breakfast was on Floor 11 with a view to the For the Panoramic Viewpoint we were dropped off to walk past the graves of people shot in 1990 by the Russians, when they were demonstrating for self-government. (Our local guide told us several times about this crime by Gorbachev but never mentioned Stalin.)

Although it was already very hot and hazy, we could look down to the Caspian and over the city. There were some beautiful early 20th century buildings, built during the period of Azerbaijan’s oil boom when it produced more than half the world’s oil supply.

Next we had a long drive out to the Absheron peninsula to visit the Zoroastrian Atesgah, (Fire temple), first built BC but used and restored by Hindus in 18th century.

We were due to stop only for a photo at Heydar Aliyev Centre, designed by the late Zaha Hadid, one of UK’s best known and highly regarded architects, but as this was the building I most wanted to see, they allowed me 20 minutes. It took me 10 to get up there and back, as the bus stopped at the bottom of the hill, so my chance to enjoy the building was brief. It is stunning, gleaming white in the bright sun. Even with my wide-angle lens I couldn’t get it all in. The tiny person in the picture shows the scale.

Back in the bus, we drove to the old town, local guide tediously pointing out every ‘educational school’ or ‘central barrier’ (the concrete central reservation on the dual carriageway ). We have been spoiled by having Alix who could have given us a far more interesting tour, but isn’t allowed.

We started at Shirvanshah’s Palace, which originated in the late 15th century, but was also restored, then walked through winding alleys where there were some old mosques and overhanging wooden balconies, but mainly it is restored and has many hotels. The symbol of the country is apparently the Maiden’s Tower, part of an 8 floor fortress then a lighthouse.

By now it was 2pm, and very hot, so we were wilting. Fortunately we are staying on so we can get out in the morning to see the carpet museum. Alix said goodbye, as her guiding duties were over. She isn’t sure how we’ll learn to think for ourselves after 3 weeks of being nannied around by her (and Armine in Armenia). They were both outstanding guides, and I think Explore is very lucky to have them.