Thrown a curve ball . . .

. . .   or,  freefall!    Waves this morning were very interesting - and not at all regular or nice.    This poor fellow started out fine, riding the face of the wave, but then came to a lower ledge-shaped part of the wave coming back up the wave - and you can see his expression change to "oh-no"! !   Momentum takes him right over the ledge into freefall as that section begins to break over.    A video would be good for this one.    He came out after surviving this drubbing, talked to some surfers watching, sat for a few minutes, drank some water - and then went right back in!!    WOW!




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