Momentum, riding the crest

We have had a couple of days with good strong winds about 25 mph with stronger gusts (forecast to 50 mph at one point) and rainy.   We had a gust come through last nite that just kept building (must have been close to 40 mph) and then just complete silence for about 5 minutes.    Didn't sleep very well last nite, but it was a busy day today.   East facing shores were forecast 7 - 10 foot waves today and with strong ENE winds, I finally went to Sandy Beach about 5PM.  Waves were good, building from far out, with wind-sheared tops.   To the left side, the beach was one big cutaway, overhead height.    This guy had gotten his ride but then went inverted (very similar to aerobatics in an airplane) to continue round to leave the wave.    The wind was buffeting so much almost all my shots were shaken, not realizing that at the time.    One easterly gust came thru, about 15 minutes before I left,  that left people tossed about and driven sand that actually hurt.    Quite an experience at the beach.    Forecast for tomorrow is 20 - 25 mph with gusts to 35, waves 6-8 foot, overcast with showers.