In the 8000-year-old Citadel, Qalat Hewler, which is still crumbling away with enthusiasm. There are plenty of plans for it (including, I heard today, a Dom Polski) but that is all a long way off, I think.

Below it, in an only-200-year-old teashop in the bazaar, we met today an interesting chap, Armenian, born in Erbil but whose grandfather left Diyarbakir (just over the border in Turkey) around 1915 at the time of the massacre. He said there were once just 10 or so Armenian families in Erbil but now there are many more, as Christians of all stripes from all over Iraq have come to live here recently.