Chiang Mai to Mae Chaem

The Mae Hong Son loop, (relatively) famous in motor biking circles for its bends and sweeps. Not designed to be done at 20km/h. It's my first day out since my test amid the drizzling housing estates of East Oxford. The road signs alternate between swiggly lines, a trumpet, and a lorry plunging to certain death. It's a very steep learning curve, literally. Every time I think it can't be as bad again, we embark on another 20km of near perpendicular bends. Welsh hills and then some.

I suspect its stunning, and the kind of ride bikers dream of. I'm concentrating on hanging on. We did almost get up the tallest mountain in Thailand today, and my only fall was from a complete standstill. I lay on my back until someone came over and picked up the bike - useful to fall off in a frequented place, if embarrassing. I'm really hoping it gets better. Ul waits and watches for me like a mother hen. Luckily.

And somehow we end in a small town beside a river (at the bottom of a very long and very steep hill) drinking beer in the cool dark on a bamboo platform over the gliding evening river. It's bliss to arrive in such a low key, perfect place. We make the $2 repair on the bike, visit the temple, find a sunset beer on top of a hill, and celebrate.

Ul describes it as Congo but nice. Congo turned Cinderella I say. Everyone is friendly and helpful. It looks gorgeous, you can make your way through it easily, and generally things seem to work out...