Erraid ‘observatory’

Today’s walk was excellent, but it was bookended by some poor examples of human behaviour. People pootling along single track roads at 20-30 miles an hour and not using the passing places, as requested, to allow those behind to overtake. Fionnphort flooded with visitors, pretty much all in cars or motor homes, presumably heading over to Iona on the ferry. No coffee shops or cafes to get a coffee and a bun, which was disappointing. Some of the worst parking I have ever seen on the road out to Knockvologan to start the road, with multiple passing places simply blocked with cars abandoned by their owners for the day. Something (Brexit? Covid?) has brought out the worst in people.

Yet the walk itself was lovely although we had a bit of difficulty with way finding, but were put straight by one of the residents on the island. The place has an interesting history, according to various websites. According to Canmore: J R Hume 1977 wrote that 
‘The Erraid shore establishment was set up in 1867 as the quarrying and support base for the construction of Dubh Artach light, which it subsequently supported. It cost £10,300 and included nine houses for the families of the Dubh Artach keepers and the crew of the attendant steamer. In 1892 they were joined by the 'Skerryvore' families and the station was disposed of in the 1950's.’

More of the history can be found on this website, which also relates the present - which is as an offshoot of the Findhorn community.

The walk over there was just glorious, across a beach which dries out at high tide and creates a bridge to the mainland. We saw the lighthouse family cottages, the current pier (which has a boat lift), the quarry and quarry cottage, and the observatory, which acted as a shore station for two lighthouses. There is an association with both the lighthouse Stevensons and their literary descendant. Knockvolagan beach is a superb spot for messing around. There are numerous little inlets, and sub beaches, and safe water for bathing, windsurfing and paddle boarding. We were amazed to see such tranquility and peace only minutes away from ‘heaving’ Fionnphort. The blip shows Iona in the background, along with some of the Treshnish Isles including probably Lunga, where we were on Sunday.

We had planned to stop on the way back if we saw a cafe. The only one we saw which was open was only 10 minutes from ‘home’, so we came back here for our afternoon cup of tea. Sitting in the conservatory or ‘sitooterie’, as they call it here, for another evening of sunshine and wildlife/sheep observation.