From a bus, in the rain: into the mountains of Eastern Anatolia. From Diyarbakir the land rolls in (at the moment) very green steppes of short, bright grass up to the foothills, full of muddy villages. Into the clouds, and especially after Bingol we were very high indeed, with four foot of old snow still lying. Bad roads, but clear; little traffic; two police checks; small rattly bus to Erzurum, which feels like a frontier town and is currently very loud after a football match.