Up the watter?

Anyone familiar with the recent history of the Firth of Clyde will know the expression "doon the watter", an experience beloved of generations of Glaswegians who would board a steamer in the centre of Glasgow and head off down the Clyde to the seaside delights of Dunoon and points south. If I'm correct, it would also apply to holidays taken at the various resorts on both sides of the firth, when places such as Dunoon, Kirn, Sandbank and Innellan would all have their own functioning piers and the river would be crowded with shipping. Nowadays, the traffic consists of the much bigger shapes of tankers, container ships and - at this time of year - cruise ships, along with the very much smaller ferries - the car ferries from Hunter's Quay and the deeply inadequate town centre ferries to Dunoon about which I have been known to moan ...

But there is one survivor of this glorious past: the Waverley. And today turned out to be the perfect day for our postponed trip with our friends from the wilds of ... Fife. When I woke I feared for the outcome: from my window I couldn't even see the water - not even the promenade - for a dense haar worthy of Edinburgh at its most mysterious, but by coffee time it had burned off as the sun gained in warmth and by the time Waverley arrived from her overnight berth at Largs the light was brilliant.

Andy and Irene joined us from Custom House Quay in Greenock for a sail round the area to the north of Dunoon - hence the title of this blip. We called at Kilcreggan, taking on more passengers, and then headed up Loch Long and into Loch Goil, past the forest tracks we enjoy walking and the cafe where I had that crazy frappe yesterday. I have to admit we didn't do much admiring of the scenery - there was too much conversation to have and it's been a while. The boat was busy - lots of English voices, as the Scottish holidays are over - and felt busier because just about everyone on board was on deck. Even the famous Waverley fish and chips were available as a carry-out so that people could enjoy the amazing weather. I cannot remember when I last was able to enjoy a sail without a jacket on.

I'm going to add an extra of the cruise ship we passed at Greenock Ocean Terminal - the passengers who were on the top deck were waving madly to us as we sailed far below. We had an interesting moment as we swept past our pick-up point and seemed to be heading irresistibly upriver, but it was only to turn in the big circle that the paddles require.

By the time we came home we were both sunburned and worn out with talking. What more could a body ask for?