Diyarbakir. The black basalt city walls are enormous and crumbling (but largely intact) - Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman, but principally from the 11th to 13th centuries. There is a poor, mostly Kurdish I believe, neighbourhood both inside and out the walls, at the east edge of town on a sort of cliff edge overlooking the Tigris valley, and the houses outside the walls are being demolished, bit by bit, though people are still living there. And animals: substantial herds of sheep and goats in amongst them, being herded in to ground-floor byres at dusk.

This seems to be happening all over (eastern) Turkey. In Diyarbakir there is a huge building project of tower blocks going up near the bus station, which I guess is where these people might be going, though it will make huge changes in their lives: no more women-children-football-goats-nosytourists on the streets in the early evening. In Erzurum the people in the district around the Seljuk tombs have been cleared to blocks on the edge of town, and I can't believe the Ottoman slum below the Kale there won't be next, though surely they won't just destroy those buildings, as they are historic; and in Kars, Celil says Kalealti will be cleared.