Locked in

The low pressure system causing terrible floods again on the east coast (mainly to the south of us) has resulted in a massive increase in swell. I could hear it start to "Boom..." during the night. Pre-dawn you could hear the excited surfers waxing their boards and talking excitedly. This surfer didn't make it but was OK. I took over 200 shots and have only just started to look at them on the computer. This was an early one. It is still overcast so the light was not good. The water is again "dirty" from the fresh water flowing into it (a natural reaction).  

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