Santa Maria, Zona Velha, Funchal
This is Santa Maria street, our main drag in the old town of Funchal, accessed directly via a covered passageway from our hotel. Small restaurants and bars abound, and there's ar least one Fado music club. If you look carefully, you'll see GG's back, and a bar called Banana's, as well as some evening rain.
Our day started with being ripped rudely away from breakfast on another levada walk, because the minibus had arrived early. Our destination was the levada do Norte, at least a small part of it. Here's what the Flora Tours website says about it:
The North Levada, as the name implies, arises on the north side of the island and extends for about 60 km, crossing a large part of the south coast of the island between Ribeira Brava and Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. The stretch chosen for this walk is about 7 km in length, with a difficulty rating of easy. Along this trail we see some of the exotic flora of the island: eucalyptus, acacia, pines and many wild flowers. The views of the landscape are dominated by farm lands, the fields consisting of terraces, called poios by the locals, and intermingle with panoramic views over the sea and the parish of Campanário.
Truth be told, though this walk was described as easy, which is why I chose it for both of us, it was not level and there were some places where the rail was missing and we had to walk single file along a narrow ledge. I handed GG over to the guide for this part, but then the German woman in front of me froze in fear... I talked her through it, and we had some fine conversation afterwards. The minibus appeared as if by magic about half way through the walk. I could see that GG was fed up, but she only dumped her bag in it, and carried on. I felt guilty for dragging her out when she could have had another pool day.
The mountain terrace part of the walk was fabulous, because it was Sunday and a sung mass was being broadcast from the church across the hillside, and the sky and the ocean were beyond blue. I want to remember these scenes forever. If I can find a decent shot in my WhatsApp pics, I'll post one in extras.
We stopped at the appropriately-named Cafe Panornamico for a coffee on the way back (another trait of Flora Tours). Some bikers came in and greeted Gail with a "hello, Lady" which she liked. Then it was back to Funchal again, in time for lunch.
We had a picnic on our balcony, and then walked along the seafront. The olan had been to see the Santa Maria talk ship depart the harbour at 3pm, but we missed her by miles! I left GG on a bench in the prom gardens, and promenaded around the harbour/ seafront, bought a poncha ice cream (rum punch flavour).
By dinner time we'd run out of money so we had to take out more from the multibanco machine, and paid one last visit to Grandfather's restaurant. I had the lamb chops and passion fruit pudim (custard). Out of this world! A great final choice.
When it started to pour with rain, GG asked the restaurant for a bag (we were practically living there by then) and she got a black bin bag and made a hoodie out of it. Have I ever explained that she has very big boofy hair that is her pride and joy? Maybe not. This bin bag business have us a great laugh on the way home.
Only one more night of ferries and cruise ships hooting in the harbour. I shall miss Madeira madly.
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