Lake Skadar

Apologies for getting further behind, but I expect that’s what being on holiday is all about! 

Our little glamping site is heavenly. Developed with love and hard work by Marius (Belgian)and Daria (Polish) on the terraces of an old vineyard high above Skadar Lake, it is an oasis of calm and natural beauty. Sitting outside our tent, we hear a rustling in the undergrowth, and a tortoise lumbers through with surprising speed - stopping suddenly when he sees us. Birdsong is everywhere, and swallows nest in the eves of the open air restaurant. Our tent is very comfortable, full of beautiful little touches provided by someone used to travelling - and we have fresh flowers and handmade soap. I’m not a ‘camping’ person by any means, but this I absolutely love, and for the first time in the last three years, I actually feel I’m on holiday. I even sleep better! 

Today we mostly relax. The temperature has risen to over 30C so it’s time to just sit and read. But we have a boat trip on the lake booked for late afternoon so we tear ourselves away and head down the hill to the little town comprising mostly of boat rental companies. Having pre-booked, we’re soon in the safe hands of the family concern - daughter giving up her parking space for us, father in charge of our boat, and we’re off through the reed channel and into the lake proper. 

We start in sunshine, a world of luscious blues and greens - reeds, grasses, lily pads - blue-grey mountains in the distance. It then clouds over - in many ways a relief, but I’m disappointed any bird photography may lack the vibrancy of sunlight. 

We soon see crested grebes, coots, cormorants and terns - both common and whiskered, and equally difficult to photograph as they wheel and dive and circle. The Holy Grail today though is, of course, the Dalmatian Pelican. Numbers on the lake have increased considerably over the last few decades, but avian flu has apparently decimated the population. None the less, before long we spot one flying in the distance, and soon we spot several other lone specimens. They are magnificent - graceful on the water despite their size and beautifully marked. We see one seemingly watching terns swooping and diving into the still water nearby, tiny birds dwarfed by this gentle giant. And when this gorgeous creature takes flight, its sheer size and magnificence becomes even clearer. Such a wonderful experience. 

Leaving the pelicans behind, our boat moves towards the rocky edges of the lake where we watch herons and egrets standing patiently, awaiting prey. It’s here we see the Squacco Heron for the first time - hard to spot at first, it’s browny colour merging with the background. Squatter than herons we are used to, at a distance it seems a dowdy bird, but at close quarters and in flight its markings are so pretty. 

Turning towards home, we spot some Pygmy Cormorants in a tree - smaller and somehow ‘cuter’ than their full-sized cousins, they’re delightful. 

It’s been a wonderful trip and the two and a half hours have flown by, but now it’s back to base to sort through the 900 shots I’ve taken! Of course, at least two thirds are simply blurs - which lessens the task! 

Today’s main has to be a pelican - though I agonise over which one to choose! - with other birds and lake shots as extras.