Between fen and mountains

By Tickytocky

Oyster lunch

Saturday is usually a mussel lunch day, along with Tuesday and often Thursday. However, as I was buying my merlu and encornet (hake and squid) for dinner tonight, I was tempted by the fines de claire oysters.

The techniques of breeding are similar in all the oyster regions of France, but in Marennes-Oléron, oysters end their growth in the "claires" ponds. This is the refining in "claires". The "claires" system needs some explanation if one wants to fully appreciate the oysters of the region. The "claires" are ponds dug in the clay and they are generally ancient salt pans reconverted in the19th century, after the decline of the production of salt. After their growth in parks, oysters are placed in the 'claires' where they acquire their tint and their taste. The green tint, which is sometimes stronger than others, is due to the presence of the blue 'navicule', the special seaweed of the region, the colour varying according to the climatic conditions.

In winter, oysters accumulate reserves and are fleshy and tasty. All oysters are not alike. The choice is vast. One can prefer them fat or thin, small, average or large, short or long, full or less full. Oysters are classified according to the official regulation into five categories which correspond to weights or ranges of weights within well-defined margins. These categories are represented by numbers, from 5 for the smallest to 0 for the largest.

I did some gardening so I felt virtuous and worthy of the treat of coffee in the square and a gourmet lunch. It is a wrong really to consider oysters a gourmet meal. They were commonly eaten in England in the 19th century and are just a simple and nutricious food, at least for non vegetarians.

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