Above the clouds

For the second day in a row we witness sunrise - but today it’s very much a planned event. We rise at 6am and make the hour long journey to Pico do Areeiro largely in the dark. Just as we spot the glow of pre-dawn in the east, we disappear into the cloud and head on ever upwards along steep and winding roads through heavy mist.

By the time we reach Areeiro, we have emerged from cloud and stand with many others on the summit slopes looking out over blankets of billowing whiteness tinged with the palest hints of sunrise. We’re at 1862m and it’s freezing - not literally, but it’s definitely cold. We’re all wrapped against the chill and stare towards the east, trying to decide the best place to view the spectacle. We’ve watched sunrise in so many special places round the world, and the spiritual feeling never fails to amaze me. Here we are, all gathered like ancient sun worshippers, waiting for that moment when we witness the magic of a new day. 

Initially, there’s a tiny peek of sun above some heavy cloud, spreading to form a blazing fire of red and orange in the smoking wisps. Then gradually, it rises further, casting golden light on peaks and rocks and vegetation. The summit observatory catches early rays, glowing eerily against the lunar landscape like some sci-fi scene. 

We turn away from the east to see the surrounding jagged peaks illuminated against the swirling cloud - it’s spectacularly beautiful. 

Once the sunrise show is over, we make our way along the first part of the infamous Areeiro to Ruivo hike - generally considered Madeira’s most challenging trek. G completed this on Saturday, braving the comments made by many that it was difficult and dangerous. Our trek today just takes us to the viewpoint of Nihno da Manta, a 30 minute walk which gives a taste of the steps and narrow ridges of the full hike. It’s certainly enough for me, and as G points out the trail winding into the distance along jagged pinnacles and tunnels, I’m in awe of his achievement in completing this. As it is, we pause here on the high platform - appropriately The Buzzard’s Nest - to drink in more stunning views, before making the return journey to the car park. What an utterly amazing experience this has been.

Thank you so much for your generous response to yesterday’s coastal set, especially those kind enough to leave hearts. I’m afraid I’m very much behind with journals, but I know you’ll understand. 

Today, inevitably, it’s another set - and rather a large one I’m afraid, but it there was just so much to photograph and the light was constantly changing. Again, I find it nigh impossible to choose a main, but I’ve gone for a silhouette of watching for first light - and yes, that is a figure perched on that large boulder!