Across Mount Cook and Tasman

We wake refreshed from our night in our ‘emergency accommodation’ which turns out to be really comfortable and pleasant, run by a lovely couple who are friendly and helpful. The weather is stunning once again, and we actually have the benefit of being 90 minutes into today’s journey thanks to yesterday’s change of plan. Incidentally, we really were expected at our Arthur’s Pass accommodation; I’m currently in a dispute with the owner over what is ‘acceptable’ in terms of standards ….!) 

We drive down to the coastal town of Hokitita for breakfast. It has a delightful retro feel about it with buildings dating from gold rush days, an arty vibe, and backs onto a spectacular beach - made even better this weekend by the ‘Sand and Driftwood’ festival. Various sculptures line the beach created from the masses of driftwood cast up on its shores. 

It’s then a detour to the Hokitika Gorge - a drive through wildflower strewn farmland backed by mountains to the easily accessible hidden pools of blue-green glacial water - actually the Hokitika river. Somewhat daunted by the apparent biker rally that has gathered in the car park, we make our way through the rain forest trail eventually leading to the swing bridge over the intensely blue water. It’s stunningly beautiful and peaceful - and when we return, the bikers have miraculously disappeared. 

We have a helicopter flight booked this afternoon from Whataroa, just north of Franz Joseph, and I’m in regular contact with the company to liaise on flight times; eventually, we have a slot at 3.10 and arrive at the departure point with time to spare. I’m both excited and nervous; the weather is perfect - we couldn’t have hoped for clearer conditions - and it’s not the first time I’ve been in a helicopter, but my risk-averse brain always fears the worse! There’s another couple flying with us, and the poor woman is terrified of heights so I can only admire her courage! 

We board our tiny craft - I’m in the front for which I’m very grateful, but it’s very cramped - and soon take off, quickly soaring over the green Whataroa valley, up across thickly forested hills and off towards the mountains. This is both fabulous and thrilling. We seem so close to hillsides, but I tell myself the pilot knows what he’s doing  … and besides, I’m busy manoeuvring myself to take shots with both camera and iPhone without elbowing the poor lady sitting next to me!

We’ve opted for the longest and most interesting flight, taking us over to Mt Cook as well as the closer mountains and all the glaciers, and soon we’re flying over the jagged snowy peaks and blue-tinged creases of the crumpled ice packs. The sky is the deepest blue in contrast to all this and it is absolutely breathtakingly beautiful. 

We’ve opted for a snow landing, and just behind the peaks of Mt Cook and Tasman, our pilot finds a snowfield where he gently lands. ‘Finds’ sounds random, but it’s clearly carefully planned and there’s a marker in the snow indicating the safety of the location. We climb down into the thick snow, sinking unsteadily, grinning ridiculously with the excitement that snow brings - let alone snow at around 2,500 metres. There are the inevitable selfies - and photos taken by our pilot. We thought it might be chilly at these altitudes, but small wonder we see water almost gushing from the glaciers such is the warmth today. What’s wonderful for us on holiday is undoubtedly far from good for the planet. 

We climb back in for our return trip - equally exciting as we sweep over the glacial ice and its jagged sculptures of blue and white - dusty layers clearly marking the dreadful Australian bushfires when remnants of ash fell onto the snowfields. Our pilot gives a full commentary as we fly - which peak we’re flying towards, which glacier we’re looking down on. It’s certainly clear just how much both Fox and Franz Joseph have retreated, grey moraine flowing into the valleys once full of ice.

All too soon, we’re sweeping back down over wooded slopes and rivers, circling steeply to touch down back at base. What a glorious experience! 

After all that excitement, we make our way to our accommodation for the night - Potter’s Creek Cabin. It is as delightful as it sounds, and despite its rural location, our wonderful host has put the air conditioning on so we walk into a beautifully cool wooden cabin - clean, tidy, well-equipped. Once unpacked and cooled down, we sit out on the deck listening to endless cicadas, looking towards the snow topped mountains and enjoying a cold glass of NZ wine! We’re back on track in terms of accommodation choices! 

Today’s choice is impossible - though I’ve got it down to a set of seven, all taken from our flight (please excuse any reflections I’ve not managed to get rid of!)

I’m going to have to start recycling my extras, and we’ve not even got to the end of January!