Misty Milford Kayak

I wake in trepidation of what is to come, dreading the idea of being on the water for at least three hours in the same conditions as yesterday. Even if the weather’s better, I’m not sure how I’ll manage - just sitting in the kayak in the same position worries me, as does keeping up with a group of other kayakers. You’ll realise by now that I do tend to get myself into a state about things - and I sometimes wonder how I manage to travel at all! 

It’s 6.00am, and peering through the curtains it seems the rain has gone and there’s a little hint of sunrise colour in the sky. My spirits lift, but anxieties remain. I’m still considering pulling out completely. 

Despite this, we drive down to Deep Water Basin where we’re due to meet. Slightly early for the pre-expedition meet, I wander round taking photographs - always calming, particularly in these glorious misty conditions; the morning is so still and beautiful.  

As expected, most of the participants seem about a third our age, but regardless, we gather together in the tent like structure to await instructions. First, it’s clothing, and we’re all issued with ridiculous ‘Where’s Wally’ stripy thermals followed by a fleece. Then there’s a the ‘splash skirt’, pulled over our heads and warn - as our guide tells us - pulled up like a ‘boob tube’ leaving the ‘skirt’ lolling comically around our hips. Then there’s the waterproof top layer, then the life jacket. It’s hard to breathe, let alone move - but the organisation is impressive. 

We move on to the safety briefing and instructions. We’ve already signed the inevitable waiver forms basically making sure we understand the dangers of earthquakes; rockfalls; tree avalanches (common here, especially after heavy rain - where whole rock faces of trees can just slip down into the sound, leaving behind great scars of bare rock); cold water; wildlife - presumably seal attacks; and last but not least Tsunamis. Now it’s basic paddling, following instructions - including how to get out of your kayak if it capsizes. Despite the ‘dangers’, I must admit we’re both impressed at how good these two young guides are, and I begin to feel a little less uneasy. 

I’m still unsure about my camera. We have dry-bags, but I’m really not sure how I’ll manage, and in the end decide it’s safer with an iPhone. Unfortunately, it’s G’s rather than mine which is still drying out after yesterday’s drenching, so sadly no wide angle  today. 

So, it’s time to go - after one last visit to the loo - a challenge in itself! And two by two, we clamber into our double kayaks and get pushed into the water. Though not a regular kayaker, muscle memory soon kicks in; thankfully it’s completely calm, so balance is not - so far - a challenge. 

We’re in two groups, and our three kayaks follow our guide Maria out into the sound. Initially, we’re in the area of Deep Water Basin, with rafts of reeds and grasses, banks of rocks and skeletons of fallen trees appearing from the mist, silent but for our paddling and the cries of Kaka or kea in the trees. A few fly overhead, squawking loudly. It’s absolutely magical. 

We make our way towards the main body of water, Milford’s mountains rising from the mists. Often we’re the last - possibly because I’m taking photos, or just because we’re slower than the others - but there really is no pressure, and it’s just so wonderful to be out here in the midst of all this beauty. We first saw Milford from deck 11 of the Silver Muse; yesterday, we saw it - in a very different mood- from the deck of an excursion ship. Today, there’s a real sense of being at one with this amazing environment - we see fur seals playing in the water just by our kayaks - and I must admit I love it! 

I had no idea we’d paddle this far out - but soon we’re almost opposite Stirling Falls.  We cross the fjord, with strict instructions to keep together and not stop, then travel back along the other side, this time having a brief encounter with Milford’s highest waterfall - the Bowen Falls - losing my hat as the force of the spray hits our kayak. 

From here, it’s back towards our starting point,  Maria needing clearance to cross the path used by all the pleasure cruisers; it’s another ‘paddle fast don’t stop’ part of the journey. I must admit I’m tired - but I’m so glad I’ve done this. I wouldn’t have missed it for the world. 

On land, we reverse the whole process, battling against a mass attack of sand flies, then take the short trip back to the sanctuary of our river room in Milford Sound Lodge where we’ve designated the afternoon as ‘chill-out’ time, listening to the constant rushing of the Cleddau  river and looking out over its blue-green waters to the towering slopes beyond. 

I did take one dreadful selfie as we were kayaking along, but I won’t subject you to that! Instead, there’s a selection of misty Milford views (usual difficulty in deciding on a main) all taken while kayaking - and one of G dressed up ready to go! 

Many thanks for your kind responses to yesterday’s reverse waterfalls - much appreciated!