Between the Points

Our return flight leaves at 8.30 so it’s an early start. At least there’s none of the usual airport facilities; instead we’re dropped off at the island post office which doubles as a flight check-in and waiting area. I love the quirkiness; post office sundries, a few souvenirs, even a rack of baby garments from the local ‘knit and natter’ group available for purchase - and it’s here we weigh and check our luggage before the minibus transfer to the airfield. We sit chatting - me with a local lady carrying the most gorgeous bouquet of home grown lilies she’s taking to the mainland for a friend. Apparently they grow in abundance on the island- I absolutely love them, but I know some people just can’t abide their heady fragrance which permeates our transport. 

The incoming flight zooms overhead onto the landing strip and we swap places with the new arrivals, the pilot assuring my new friend her flowers will be safe in the hold. All seated, we are warned we’ll have a bumpy start to our flight, and sure enough, there are several stomach-churning jolts as we clear land. The weather’s returned to torrential rain and wind - which at least makes me feel better about not trying to change our flight to enable a rescheduled boat trip: it would definitely be cancelled. 

Some twenty minutes later, we’re inside Invercargill airport having breakfast after collecting our luggage from the plane ourselves - there’s much to be said for flying in small planes! 

Today, we start our exploration of the Catlins, a delightful area on the south east corner of New Zealand. There are numerous places that we plan to stop en route to our accommodation at Kaka Point, but the weather isn’t playing ball, and we continue on the road through driving rain, consoled that we can try again tomorrow. 

As we drive further east the rain diminishes, and there are actually a few places where  I manage to get out of the car to take a shot or two, but it’s only after we arrive at Kaka point, our home for the next two nights, that the weather really lifts. Once again, our accommodation affords superb views - here it’s the long sandy beach and out towards Nugget Point, one of the region’s iconic spots. The wind has whipped up waves that break dramatically as they near shore, sending spindrift high into the air and delighting the awaiting surfers. 

Soon after unpacking - and by now we’re very good at this - the improved weather takes us west along the coast to Nugget Point, passing the most glorious beaches on our way. We pass frequent signs warning of sea lions along the coast - but we encounter none. 

The road then climbs up from the coast towards our destination, the final route taking us along the cliffs on foot, past an unexpected spoonbill nesting colony. It’s beyond the effective limits of my 600mm lens, but I manage to capture slightly blurry shots of adults and chicks sweetly interacting in their nests. 

The path dips down before then climbing gently along the ridge that leads to Nugget Point Lighthouse, still shining warnings above the stubby clumps of rocks that reminded Cook of gold nuggets - hence its name. The wind is howling now across our path, but it’s quite safe, and we make our way towards the very end before returning. There’s another walk to take us down to Roaring  Bay where there’s a hide to watch for yellow eyed penguins, but we decide as it’s not sunset and it’s so late in the breeding season, we’re unlikely to get sightings, and drive on - a real sign that we’re tired and coming towards the end of our adventure! 

We’re not too tired, however, to stop by one of the beaches where there’s a large colony of white-fronted terns. By now the weather is just perfect, and it’s a joy to walk along the beach photographing these lovely birds, along with slender-stepping stilts. 

We return to base, prepare and eat a meal, and look out on this gorgeous stretch of coast in evening sunshine, almost forgetting the frustrations of the rain earlier in the day. 

My main today’s a white fronted tern, with extras of a black-winged stilt, Nugget Point, the beach looking towards Nugget Point, and the nesting spoonbill. 

Many thanks for your kind response to yesterday’s Stewart Island shots - all much appreciated! 

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