The road to Aoraki

And so, bright and comparatively early, we leave Kaka Point and The Catlins for our penultimate destination - Mt Cook or Aoraki.  

We’ve debated which route to take, eventually deciding on the coastal road to Oamaru, then west along the Waitaki valley, up to the delightfully named Twizel and Lake Pukaki. It’s a beautiful day, and the journey goes without a hitch. Originally, I’d planned a visit to the Moeraki Boulders - but our route seems long already, and I must admit by now I’m running out of energy, so I’m ashamed to say that this gets missed; I’m already regretting the decision to drive on, but I know we can’t do everything. 

We do spend a little time driving round the Victorian centre of Oamaru and stop at the Maori Rock drawings in the Waitaki valley (so sad to see the rock scars where drawings were cut away, and the scrawled graffiti that defaced what’s left before the fence was erected) but this is largely a straight run through to Mt Cook - or at least to Lake Pukaki where of course we have to stop for the obligatory view of New Zealand’s highest mountain. The glacial water makes the lake impossibly blue - it really is quite hard to believe the colour’s natural. And there, in the distance is the snow topped majesty of Aoraki. There are some clouds rolling along the very tops of adjacent  peaks, but Cook itself stands clear and proud. 

The journey up the valley is slow, as G is asked to stop in every possible place - both official and unofficial - so I can photograph the views. It’s not just Aoraki, but all the other hills and mountains that are dramatic in the late afternoon light, with their jagged peaks or deeply creased valleys. And whilst the view across the lake is beautiful, I like the contrast of the stark gold flats stretching before us past the lake - scenes very different from the same range of mountains to the west where they almost rise straight from the sea. 

Eventually, we arrive in Mt Cook ‘Village’ - a smattering of lodging places and one eatery - so very different from Franz Joseph just the other side of these impenetrable mountains. Further away is The Hermitage, the grand hotel of the area, a towering rather ungainly building rather less traditional than I had expected. We came close to choosing this for our stay, but I was rather put off by the mixed reviews.  What’s undeniable is that the most expensive rooms must have spectacular views. Meanwhile, we have our single story unit in the grandly named Aoraki Court - clean, efficient, roomy - we even have spa bath which we definitely won’t be using. And we have views of Mt Sefton and its glaciers - looking spectacular tonight. 

We settle in, make our way over to The Old Mountaineers Cafe for a meal, before returning to our mountain lodging - spotting a tiny silver eye en route - and settle down to sleep ready for more mountain exploration tomorrow…. 


Today’s very much an alpine set, with shots along the road to Aoraki across Lake Pukaki (and yes, it really is that colour!) and the high moorlands, together with closer shots of Aoraki and Mt Sefton.