Birds, Butterflies and Giants

Our final day before flying home is spent in true holiday mode, driving round the glorious Banks Peninsula. This is a peninsula like no other, a messy ink blot rather than the usual elongated extension from the land, jagged in outline and in profile, with undulating hills and outcrops and a myriad of inlets and bays. 

Cook described the land as ‘of a circular figure ... of a very broken uneven surface and [having] more the appearance of barrenness than fertility,’ and initially considered it an island. When we sailed around the Banks Peninsula back in December, it certainly look barren, but today we see it is much more than this, with little settlements, clumps of green, and inlets of the deepest blue. 

We stop in Little River, enjoying coffee and muffin in the best cafe of our trip, and watch crested grebe and black swans, the former displaying beautifully in what must be the second mating of the season.  We drive the ‘summit track’ looking down on the glorious blues of the deep Akaroa and Lyttelton harbours - remnants of two old volcanic craters - and stop to watch the hawks hunting over the hills. 

Our ultimate destination is the little town of Akaroa itself, known as the most French town - some would say the only - in New Zealand. It’s a picturesque little town, full of historic buildings beautifully preserved set in delightful gardens - quite reminiscent of Russell where we started our road trip all those weeks ago. 

We decide to visit The Giant’s House, the art and mosaic garden created by Josie Martin. I really wasn’t sure about this place - it seemed so bizarre and quirky.  But no sooner are we through the entrance that I fall in love with it. Of course, the weather is superb, sunshine bright and sky deep blue - all setting off the sculptures beautifully. Mosaics are used throughout, often clearly broken crockery, spouts and handles deliberately visible, and colours are so vibrant, set off by the equally bright plantings. We’re both reminded of the sublime Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh, deep blue offset by acid greens - but here everything has a touch of humour. I find myself smiling the whole time I am there. It really is ‘the happiest garden in the world’ as it’s creator describes it. And just to add to my happiness, the dahlias are alive with monarch butterflies! It’s a fabulous place to photograph! 

https://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/homed/garden/126899838/the-happiest-garden-in-the-world-

We’ve decided this trip  will be a wonderful way to end our New Zealand adventure; a relaxing day followed by a gourmet meal in one of Akoroa’s excellent restaurants. We dine in Ma Maison  - a meal as delicious as we’d hoped. But it’s then that the alert comes through from Air New Zealand: tomorrow’s flight to Auckland has been cancelled ….. clearly getting home is going to be a problem! 

So I’m afraid you’re going to have a few more of these New Zealand entries to put up with, but they’re likely to be rather more pedestrian than of late! 

Even harder than usual to choose today, as there are so many completely different subjects, but I think my favourite (just) is a grebe - not one displaying, but just on its own; then there’s a single monarch, a black swan in the evening light, and a collage of The Giant’s Garden. 

Thank you once again for your response to yesterday’s very blue lake!