Of Presidents and Printing

Present Macron's visit (not Putin's, thank goodness) altered our day somewhat. We had to negotiate for auto rickshaws as  all 12 of us wanted to go to Amber (12 km) and the autos here in Jaipur are smaller and only take 3 Europeans or  around 59 Indians with parcels.  It was a bumpy ride. The magnificent fort at Amber/Amer, where we were headed, was closed because of the visit. Macron was going to be taken there. All along the highway, huge billboards had been erected, showing Macron and Modi in various poses, saying 'India-France Friendship'. There were giant cardboard cutouts of the  two of them, too. I saw one of them apparently walking across the highway on its own! Junctions had been freshly chalked. The sacred cows had been rounded up. Only decorated dromedaries could be seen. People were sweeping the roadsides, which remained dusty.  The police and army were out in force, great black busloads of them. Macron was expected to use the road at 2pm. 

The block printing  museum at Amber was excellent. We arrived there at 10.45. After a viewing and chai/drinks, two rickshaws' worth of our party, myself included, went to a wholesalers' to look at bedspreads. The place was textile heaven! Much unrolling of bedspreads and oohing and aahing. Most people bought at least one. They were not cheap. I bought a top for myself. Thought I could wear it when I got back to the UK, then remembered that it would still be January there. Maybe not.

Coming back at 2pm, we were hit by the road closure and had to go via the back streets, bumping over every speed hump, getting lost in the bazaars. I was worn to a ravelling  when we returned to our hotel, and instantly took more paracetamol, just in case. 

For lunch at our restaurant, I had fish Tikka, which was delightful. We sat by the pool until 4.30, then I saw a message on the group about another textile shop nearby. I went out with another two and ended up buying more stuff for myself. Bargaining is difficult but essential. One of our group is  half-Turkish and likes to haggle, but even she could not get the price she wanted. 

I joined a group in the upstairs lounge for a game similar to Ludo on a hand block-printed 'board' cloth, with cowrie shells and carved betel wood pieces. Annie had bought it at the museum shop. It's a joy to behold.

Later, I joined others in the restaurant and drank Indian wine. We retired back to the lounge afterwards to listen to music (reggae and Tom Waits in my case) and make plans. Tomorrow is Republic Day, hence Macron's visit, so all the museums and so on in the Pink City/Old Town will be closed. They were also closed today, which is why we did not go there. I'm hoping we can take the Metro tomorrow, as it's close by, and that we can enjoy ourselves even though not everything will be open. There is a Royal park of 30 acres. Will we be allowed in? Most of all, I hope to avoid another ride in an auto rickshaw. They are too small in Jaipur, and the pollution is a problem.

Best things about today?
The Anokhi museum of block printing at Amber
Fish Tikka
Chilling in the lounge with Russell and Tina