The Colosseum at El Jem

Breakfast this morning seemed mainly to be last night’s leftover salads. I had a bit of flatbread with honey and tried a croissant but it was like one of Tescos doughy ones, not the nice flaky proper type of the last hotel. We had to forage around for cultlery and there was no self-service coffee. Basil finally brought us a cup. I had a search for fresh orange juice. The man at the counter appeared but had no knife to cut the oranges. He went off to find one and cut up about 20 before he tried to juice them. The juicer didn’t work so he got another. Then he told me to have a seat and he’d bring it. But he took it to someone else by which time we had to get on the bus.

This morning, (a bright and sunny one), the bus took us to El Jem in about 1.5 hours.

This was an excellent visit. First we went to the Colosseum which is even better preserved, and not much smaller, than the one in Rome. We explored the underground chambers where the animals and gladiators were, then climbed to the top floor - over 30,000 spectators could view the “sport”. The appropriate part of the film “ Gladiator” was made here.

The Sahel area, where El Jem (Thysdus) is situated, was a source of olive oil for Rome and many wealthy people lived there In luxurious villas. It was in second century CE that Thysdrus expanded. Wonderful mosaic floors have been discovered. However the citizens rose in revolt at the high taxes imposed by Rome around 230CE when they proclaimed the imperial official Gordian Emperor. During his short reign the amphitheatre was built. It was partially destroyed in 1695 by Mohammed Bey to evict followers of Ali Bey.

We visited the museum housed in what was partly a Roman villa where we saw further amazing mosaics and items of bone, statues and pottery. There were many rooms to see, plus the excavations of the remains of other houses.

We drove out of town to a tourist restaurant for lunch. It was a buffet. As I was helping myself to some green lentils and salad the guide whipped me away and sat me down by a huge plate of potatoes, rice and an omelette. In addition to this poor Melanie was given an enormous plate of plain spaghetti. The guide told her yesterday, when she said she’d had enough eggs, that she could have an omelette without eggs but sadly that did not materialise. We were interested to see how they’d manage it.

After lunch we drove to Monastir to see the mausoleum of Habib Bourguiba, first President after the French occupation, in control from 1957- 1987 and founder of the republic.

Then we walked over to the Rabat, a heavily restored fortress (used as a location for Life of Brian). Mr C climbed to the highest tower while I made a lesser climb for the sea view and the corniche. The town is very wealthy.

Tomorrow is a Souss souk and more shopping opportunities so I’ve booked a massage and will have a chill out before the early start home the following day.