Camara de Lobos

Once a poor but beautiful fishing village much loved of Winston Churchill. Now a trendy tourist spot on everyone’s agenda on a visit to Madeira.

The building of lots of council flats and the relocation of numerous families (allegedly with 15 and more children) meant lots of changes. Pestana have remodelled Churchill’s view (actually quite tastefully) and the hop on hop off tourist buses have made it more accessible.

Tales of stone throwing children and hostile locals have faded, but as I ventured from the no 1 bus along the coastal path into town quite early, I encountered first a young lady who I suspect was on something, and I was startled by a man who sneaked upon me. No real problem - just a gentle reminder to be wary. 

It’s such a beautiful village. I took all the usual shots but decided on these colourful boats that seem piled up as they wait to be put back into service.

I went to the Sunday service in the church at the end of the touristy street with the oil drums and recycled art. It was packed to overflowing. Families arrived all the time, well into the service. The music was excellent. Chilren read all the lessons and introduced some of the devotions. The priest wandered into the aisle, with loud microphone and got people involved.

I’m not sure if this was a special service or what always happens. Religion isn’t window dressing here; it’s alive and vitally important to families of all shapes and sizes.

I went to a lovely fish restaurant overlooking the village for my final big meal of the holiday. Stunning spaghetti with seafood and fish………the memory will have to last until November when I’m back.

Madeira - pure magic.