Beneath Biscay

By Douglian

Tangier

A street in the medina, old town, of Tangier.

We have holidayed in the far south of Spain on several occasions and have often gazed on the coast of Africa, clearly visible across the straits of Gibraltar. This year we were going to be holidaying in the same area so we decided in advance that we would make the crossing. Accordingly we booked tickets on the one day 'cultural' tour with FRS, the company that runs the Tarifa to Tangier ferry.

A couple of days before the trip I came across a bunch of reviews of the tour on Trip Advisor which couldn't have been much worse. So I forewarned everyone not to expect too much. And I went with some trepidation.

Anyway it was great to set foot in Africa, the first time for all of us. The trinket sellers just about everywhere were absolutely relentless, a bit like wasps around a picnic, but I never found any of them discourteous. I did land up buying the obligatory teapot, which I expect will turn out to have more holes that are strictly necessary or desirable in a teapot, plus some sandals and slippers. M spent more than anticipated on various herbs, oils and cure-alls from the berber herbalist. He was wearing a white coat so I'm sure they will all be of the finest quality.

Daughter C bought one of those attractive leather and textile satchels for a very reasonable price. Last year she had wanted to buy one from a Moroccan goods stall back home in Gijon but the vendor wouldn't hassle so she didn't buy. I think C was the smartest buyer of any of us.

During conversation with my purveyor of teapots, he offered a low "crisis" price on a plate. I replied that given the amount of construction work I'd seen building chalets and apartments in the more desirable outskirts, towards the area where we drove past the palaces of the King of Morocco, the King of Saudi Arabia and that of the Nabob of some Emirate or other, there didn't seem to be a crisis in Morocco, unlike Europe. Oh yes he said, you've only had a crisis for a year or two in Europe. We've had a crisis for thirty years. All those chalets and apartments are for Arabs from the oil rich gulf states, not for us Moroccans.

On our return we turned on the TV to hear that there had been a coup in Egypt as the arab spring continues to reverberate. I wonder whether Morocco will continue to be immune.

Whatever, we enjoyed our visit, and if I could I'd go back and buy that plate from my Mr Teapot.

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