Wow!

It doesn't get much better than this in the N W Highlands

It was glorious from the word go this morning but although we planned to go quite a long drive north we didn’t want to leave too early as the Elphin Craft market on Wednesday doesn't open until 10.00. Arriving in Elphin just after 10.00. We saw the Elphin Tearooms was open, in recent years we’ve passed and it’s been closed. We knew it was run by someone from Australia so reading the book Landlines, by Raynor Winn, author of the Salt Path, which I have brought with me, I immediately recognised who the Australian lady who kindly let them in for tea during their long distance trail in lockdown. I asked the lady who brought us coffee if it was her in the book and it was her mum that is featured . Incidentally I agree with her views on the NC500!

Popped in to the craft market and they now have their own food and drink van outside run by Elphin Larder. I did by a little something.
 The journey onwards was a delight with totally clear mountains after seeing them magically swathed in mist as we set off from Coigach. Passed through the deer country of Inchnadamph ( field of the Stags) and Kykescu and saw quite a lot of red deer. No pictures as the driver couldn’t stop!
Turned off the main route for Kinlochbervie and then on to Oldshoremore where there is this magnificent beach.

We have walked this circuit three times quite a while ago but the beaches and views never fail to impress. There were swimmers and paddle boarders but it was still pretty quiet.
We hadn’t considered the tide and as you can see there is a small headland to negotiate and the tide was coming in. I just went for it but got wet up to my shins! Chris was more cautious and navigated the rocks - extra 1. I have learned you can walk in wet boots and socks.

A climb up on to the next headland and a walk to the over to the next bay and Polin Beach. Smaller, quieter and just as delightful - extra 1 second photo
We chose rocks above this beach to sit and have our picnic.
We spotted there was a bench on the path down to the beach and moved to it for desert - water and dark chocolate Kitkats!
Masses of wild flowers everywhere, you can see the wild primroses above the beach in the extra and on the headland beyond Polin which we climbed next, the fissures in the cliffs were full of flowers - extra 2

After a stop at the next bay with a small pier we negotiated the last headland over to Sheigra. This was a bit steep and the paths were nearer to the cliff edge than I liked but we got nearly to the bottom on the other side by Sheigra Beach and Chris fell on rocks and grazed his arm quite badly! Oh dear we’re not fit to be out!

Going back to my book, Landlines, the couple who plan to walk from Cape Wrath but can’t due to military action actually start from Sheigra camp site. I didn't know any of these coincidences when I planned to redo the Oldshoremore walk or brought the book to read! Hardly any campers here today, just a few one or two man tents but this is definitely for tent camping without facilities but in a stunning setting.

We set off to walk back on the road. There are toilets at the car park for the Sandwood Bay car park and Chris stopped to wash his arm. Got chatting to a chap there and he offered us a lift back to Oldshoremore in the back of his campervan. Most kind and his dog didn’t seem to mind us at all! (Always happy to miss out the road walking.)

More deer we couldn’t stop for near Kylescu but we did stop at the hotel for a drink and a look in the craft cabin. 
All the lay bys on the route we’d just taken warned of delays and closures over the coming days. The vans occupying them were not for road works and we suspected filming. We were right, one of the guys at our table said they were filming something ‘Norwegian’ for Netflix. Twins were mentioned but it meant nothing to me.

Back now for a laid back evening watching those mountains in the evening sun.

Today has been one of the special days we come here for, unbelievable weather,  I’ve even got a bit sunburned! 
Obviously we would have preferred for Chris not to fall but at at least now we sort of match!

Apparently we were lucky to have beach access today as they have been filming here too and it’s been closed